Must Try Grilled Pork Ribs from Jobakjip 조박집 (South Korea, Seoul)

Grilled Pork Ribs (Galbi) 돼지갈비

If you are a fan of BBQ / Grilled Pork Ribs, the best place to have it in Seoul is in Mapo 마포 at Mapo's Dwaeji Galbi & Dwaeji Jumulleok Alley. In the 1950s, the Mapo port was busy with cargo boats that carried timber and grains down the Han River to the many sawmills and granaries in Mapo. There were many hungry seamen and workers looking for cheap filling food and booze to get over their strenuous day. With a growing demand, many eateries started popping up selling grilled pork and Makgeolli (Korean rice wine). Even after the port closed down, the blue collar workers were replaced with white collar workers (e.g. office workers). The office workers would frequent these eateries for the Makgeolli and Soju after a stressful day at work. The youngest employee in the group would normally be tasked (arrow-ed) to grilled the meat. Today, there are many barbecue restaurants (some having been opened before the dock was closed) along this particular alley.

My Korean friend brought us to this particular eatery known as Jobakjip 조박집 at the Dwaeji Galbi & Dwaeji Jumulleok Alley (aka Mapo BBQ Alley). Along the way, we spotted several barbecue restaurants and in fact, there was a hint of smokey barbecue smell in the air in this alley! Jobakjip 조박집 is 5 to 10 minutes walk away from Mapo Station (subway line 5) Exit 1.

When we entered the eatery, I was surprised that the eatery was nearly full (considering the competition). 

Menu

Focus on the menu, not the guys... The menu was mainly in Korean and English language. It was also simple and straight to the point. There was just two mains in it; (i) Hanwoo Grilled Seasoned Meat (Beef Jumulleok) 한우 주물럭 and (ii) Grilled Pork Ribs (Galbi) 돼지갈비. There were also Rice,  Radish Water Kimchi Noodle (DongChimi Noodle) 동치미국수 and Alcoholic Beverages. 

Interestingly, this is a non-smoking eatery. The eatery is well-ventilated and the place is not smokey unlike some other barbecue restaurants. But do note, your clothes will still definitely smell. 

All the wooden tables in the eatery had a charcoal fire pit in the middle as all the customers here would definitely be here for the barbecue food.

This was the spread we ordered, some food items are not shown in this photo. As usual, there would always be complimentary side dishes.

Each person would be served a bowl of salad.

Another side dish for sharing. There was also preserved radish.

Grilled Pork Ribs (Galbi) 돼지갈비

I was told that this eatery is well known for its Grilled Pork Ribs (Galbi) 돼지갈비. No need to worry about the fats as they would melt in the heat and help ensure that the meat is tender. The excessive fats would drip down into the grills.

The meat is normally marinated in a concoction of soy sauce, sliced scallions, garlic, ginger juice, sugar, sesame seeds, sesame oil and pepper. It would typically be scored to allow the meat to adsorb the marinade easily. 

Grilled Pork Ribs (Galbi) 돼지갈비

The Grilled Pork Ribs (Galbi) 돼지갈비 was indeed delicious. It was well marinated and succulent, of great quality and flavour. The smokey flavour from the charcoal stove was locked in the meat too. This is a must try! 

The garlic can be grilled too. The sauce at the left is the gochujang sauce. Not too sure what the sauce at the top is.

The locals would normally not eat the meat alone. They would take a piece of lettuce, spread the gochujang sauce on it, add a grilled garlic on top.

Then they would take the piece of cooked Galbi and drip it into this special sauce before adding the meat onto the lettuce and wrap it up. This is how they would eat this.

Radish Water Kimchi Noodle (DongChimi Noodle) 동치미국수

We also ordered a bowl of Radish Water Kimchi Noodle (DongChimi Noodle) 동치미국수 each. This is water based, non spicy kimchi and is traditionally consumed during winter. Today, koreans consume this all year round. It was served chilled. The broth was clear and was refreshing while the radish was crunchy.

Hanwoo Grilled Seasoned Meat (Beef Jumulleok) 한우 주물럭

We also ordered the Hanwoo Grilled Seasoned Meat (Beef Jumulleok) 한우 주물럭. Compared to the Galbi, this is normally lightly marinated in a concoction of sesame oil, salt, garlic and pepper. Instead of scoring the meat, the concoction would be rubbed over the meat.

Hanwoo Grilled Seasoned Meat (Beef Jumulleok) 한우 주물럭

The staff would change the grills before this is grilled. The marbling on the meat looks great. However, looks can be deceiving. The appearance and price of the Beef Jumulleok, mismatch the taste. It was not as tasty and flavourful as the Galbi (which was way cheaper). 

Fermented Soybean Paste Stew (Doenjang jjigae) 된장 찌개

Towards the end of the meal, we were given a complimentary small pot of Fermented Soybean Paste Stew (Doenjang jjigae) 된장 찌개. We place it on top of the charcoal stove and heat it up further. This was tasty and delicious. We really enjoyed the soup. 

It was worth our time travelling down specially to Mapo to try the Grilled Pork Ribs (Galbi) 돼지갈비 from Jobakjip 조박집. This is worth a visit if you are in Seoul. Do not miss this!

Namecard

This is the name card of the eatery.

Jobakjip 조박집 (South Korea, Seoul)
Yonggang-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea
서울특별시 마포구 용강동 40-1번지
Tel: +82 2 712 7462

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Pro Ganjang Gejang 프로간장게장 (South Korea, Seoul)

Raw Crabs Marinated in Soy Sauce (Ganjang Gejang) 간장게장 55,00 KRW (S$68)

Pro Ganjang Gejang 프로간장게장 is a restaurant that specialises in serving Ganjang Gejang - Raw Crabs Marinated in Soy Sauce (간장게장). Ganjang Gejang is a traditional korean dish dating back to the Joseon Dynasty (1392 - 1910). It is a salted fermented dish that is difficult to prepare.

The restaurant is among one of the first to open in the 1980s serving Ganjang Gejang. Back then, pro baseball athletes frequent the alley and found the Ganjang Gejang delicious. Through word of mouth, this particular alley where the restaurant is located became known as Sinsa-dong's Ganjang Gejang Alley.  You will be able to find several restaurants selling Ganjang Gejang along this alley.

Today, Pro Ganjang Gejang has a building of its own.

The interior of the restaurant is filled with photos of celebrities and sports athletes, some of whom are from Japan. Apparently, Japanese tourist like this so much that the restaurant has opened a branch in Tokyo, Japan.

 The side dishes.

Raw Crabs Marinated in Soy Sauce (Ganjang Gejang) 간장게장 55,00 KRW (S$68)

We ordered 2 small size female crabs which cost  55,00 KRW (S$68). The right way to eat the Raw Crabs Marinated in Soy Sauce (Ganjang Gejang) 간장게장 is to use your hands. It would be hard to eat it with utensils.

Raw Crabs Marinated in Soy Sauce (Ganjang Gejang) 간장게장 55,00 KRW (S$68)

Many people would also scoop some rice on the crab shell and mix it with Ganjang Gejang.

Although the crabs were fresh, the both of us did not like this dish. The meat was just so raw and soft while the sauce was on the salty end. We are probably too used to eating crabs that are cooked which are of a different texture. I doubt that we will try Ganjang Gejang again, we prefer our crabs cooked!

Steamed Egg (Gyeran Jjim) 계란찜 5,00 KRW (S$6.25)

We also ordered a Steamed Egg (Gyeran Jjim) 계란찜 5,00 KRW (S$6.25) for sharing. The difference between the korean and chinese steamed egg is that the korean version is denser and less smooth. Taste wise, this was a good dish to complement the Ganjang Gejang.

The toilet at the restaurant was impressive! There was a mouth wash dispenser! 

Pro Ganjang Gejang 프로간장게장 (South Korea, Seoul)

27-1 Jamwon-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul 

프로간장계장, 서울특별시 서초구 잠원동 27-1

Tel: +82 2 543 4126
Opening Hours: 24 hours daily
Directions: From Sinsa Station (subway line 3) Exit 4, walk down along gangnam-daero and turn right at the first alley. Then turn left at the next alley, you will see the Pro Ganjang Gejang building (with a big crab sign) in front. 

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Sinseon Seolnongtang 신선설농탕 (South Korea, Seoul)

Ox Bone Stew and Boiled Rice (Seolnongtang) 설농탕 7,000 KRW (S$8.75)

Sinseon Seolnongtang 신선설농탕 is a popular chain restaurant specialising in Ox Bone Stew (aka Seolnongtang). It has many outlets in different parts of seoul such as Myeongdong, Hongdae and Sinchon. 

We visited their outlet in Myeongdong which is opened 24 hours daily! The restaurant was nearly full at 1030am on a weekday!

Menu

The menu comes in four languages; Korean, English, Japanese and Chinese! Japanese language was added inside as the restaurant chain was featured as a must try restaurant in popular Japanese medias. It has been reported that more than 50 Japanese tourist visit the restaurant daily!

On each table, there was tubs of complimentary kimchi and radish. There was a pair of Scissors so that customers can cut them into smaller pieces.

Ox Bone Stew and Boiled Rice (Seolnongtang) 설농탕 7,000 KRW (S$8.75)

We both ordered the Ox Bone Stew and Boiled Rice (Seolnongtang) 설농탕 7,000 KRW (S$8.75). There were just way too many restaurants and Korean cuisines that we wanted to try and squeeze into our itinerary during this trip. Two hours after this meal, we would be having our lunch. 

Ox Bone Stew and Boiled Rice (Seolnongtang) 설농탕 7,000 KRW (S$8.75)

The Ox Bone Stew (Seolnongtang) is made by simmering ox bones for long hours until it becomes a white milky broth.  

Ox Bone Stew and Boiled Rice (Seolnongtang) 설농탕 7,000 KRW (S$8.75)

The Ox Bone Stew (Seolnongtang) was delicious; rich and tasty with a unique mushroom flavour. Moreover, it was not at all salty! If you need, you can added the kimchi, radish, salt, pepper or red chilli flakes into the soup to enhance the taste. I saw no need for that. There were several pieces of sliced brisket in the broth.

Ox Bone Stew and Boiled Rice (Seolnongtang) 설농탕 7,000 KRW (S$8.75)

The best way to enjoy the soup is to add the it into the rice, allowing the rice grains to soak up all the essence in the soup. Interestingly, the rice is refillable while the soup is not. 

Sinseon Seolnongtang (Myeongdong Branch) 신선설농탕(명동점) (South Korea, Seoul)

3-1, Myeongdong 10-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul (Myeong-dong 2(i)-ga) 

서울특별시 중구 명동10길 3-1 (명동2가)

Tel: +82 2 777 4531
Opening Hour: 24 hours daily

Directions: From Myeong-dong Station (subway line 4) Exit 8, Make a left and continue for 300 meters. Turn right onto Myeongdong-gil when you see the ABC Mart. The restaurant will be on your right. 

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Mapo Naru House 마포나룻집 (South Korea, Seoul)

Cold Noodles (Naengmyeon) 냉면 5,500 KRW (S$6.80)

Mapo Naru House 마포나룻집 is a popular restaurant located in Hongdae for several reasons. It serves a variety of Korean food (e.g. Naengmyeon (Cold noodles) and Dakbokkeum (spicy braised chicken). Dakbokkeum and other Jjigae (Korean stew)/Jeongol (Korean casserole or stew)) which goes well with a variety of Makgeolli (alcoholic beverage) from different regions. Also, it is opened till the wee hours of the mornings till 7am on some days, catering to those who want to hang out after partying or clubbing. In terms of pricing, the food here is affordable.

It is hard to miss this restaurant. The restaurant name is spelled out clearly in Korean.

The restaurant has two levels. The first level seemed to have a small seating capacity. Hence, we went up to the second level. The second level was surprisingly huge! There was a mixture of outdoor and indoor seats. The outdoor seatinglooks so romantic, like dining in a garden. But as the weather was warm (or if you are not comfortable sitting on the floor), we decided to stay indoors.

This is one of the areas for indoor seating.

It offers a view of the exterior.

The interior restaurant looks antique and rustic with wooden furnishing. There were even paper with menu printed and it seems to be slightly burnt to make them look old.

It provided a contrast compared to the menu displayed outside the restaurant entrance at level 1.

These are complimentary side dishes that were served.

Steamed Pork Dumplings (Gogi Mandu) 고기만두 4,500 KRW (S$5.60)

The Steamed Pork Dumplings (Gogi Mandu) 고기만두 4,500 KRW (S$5.60) was relatively value for money compared to other restaurants. However, the outer skin was a tad too thick. Fortunately, the interior which consisted of pork meat and vegetables was tasty.

Cold Noodles (Naengmyeon) 냉면 5,500 KRW (S$6.80)

The main reason why I visited this restaurant was for its signature Cold Noodles (Naengmyeon) 냉면 5,500 KRW (S$6.80).  This was my first time trying this. It consisted of buckwheat noodles served in cold beef broth with cucumbers. Although it looked plain, dull and unappetising, it was surprisingly tasty, and cold and refreshing. The texture of the noodles was smooth and chewy.

Rice Topped with Raw Crabs Marinated in Soy Sauce (Ganjang Gejang Bibimbap) 비빔밥 간장게장 7,500 KRW (S$9.40)

We also ordered a Rice Topped with Raw Crabs Marinated in Soy Sauce (Ganjang Gejang Bibimbap) 비빔밥 간장게장 7,500 KRW (S$9.40) for sharing. This was the most interesting dish, the raw crab looks do different compared to how it looks when it is cooked.

Rice Topped with Raw Crabs Marinated in Soy Sauce (Ganjang Gejang Bibimbap) 비빔밥 간장게장 7,500 KRW (S$9.40)

Give all the ingredients a good mix. This tasted surprisingly good. The raw/fishy taste of the crab was not distinct and there was a complexity of sweetness and saltiness to the dish. Towards the end however, it got a little too salty.

It was not easy finding this restaurant. We walked from Hongik University station (subway line 2) and it took a good 30 minutes walk to reach this restaurant. Along the way, we stopped by at the Tourist Information (Red Star in above photo) to check for directions. We also stopped by to purchase finger food and had a quick look at some of the clothes in the shops. The restaurant is circled in red at the left hand side of the photo. More directions are appended below.

Mapo Naru House 마포나룻집 (South Korea, Seoul)

364-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu

Seoul, South Korea 

서울 마포구 서교동 364-19번지 

Tel: +82-2-337-5515

Opening Hours: Mon 11.30am - 10pm

                         Tue to Fri 1130am - 7am

                         Sat 1130am to 3am
Directions: From Hongik University station (subway line 2) Exit 9, turn left into the street right next to KFC and turn right after you pass Coffee Bean into the main street of Hongdae. Keep going straight, you will see the Tourist Information Counter. Cross the road and take the street between Tonymoly cosmetic store and Seven Eleven (aka Eoulmadang-ro). Keep walking straight (past 1  more junction).  You will find Mapo Naru House on your left.

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Tosokchon Samgyetang Restaurant 토속촌土俗村 (South Korea, Seoul)

Black Chicken Stew with Ginseng (Ogolgye Samgyetang) 22,000 KRW (S$27.50)

Tosokchon Samgyetang Restaurant 토속촌土俗村 is a well known restaurant in Seoul known for their signature Ginseng Chicken Soup (Samgyetang). It is popular with both tourist and locals. I have visited this restaurant a number of times in the past with my Korean friends when I was studying in Seoul. I still remember then they told me that the then President (now Late President Roh Moo-hyun) frequently visit this restaurant. This was the best Ginseng Chicken Soup (Samgyetang) I had during my stay in Korea. I would always recommend friends visiting Seoul to visit this restaurant.

Facade

Facade

Tosokchon Samgyetang Restaurant is located near Gyeongbokgung Station (subway line 3). I have read and heard that there could be queues at the restaurant at times. Luckily for us, there was no queue that day. In fact, I have never queued here before in all my past visits =D .

Tosokchon Samgyetang Restaurant has a large seating capacity. They have got several large rooms with floor seating

And some with chairs. They also have private rooms available for groups of 5 to 10 subjected to availability.

Menu

Menu

The menu and prices are now stated in both Korean and English Languages.

Complimentary drink and ginseng alcohol (in smaller cups). Some would drink the ginseng alcohol straight from the cup while some would pour the ginseng alcohol into their bowl of ginseng chicken.

Complimentary Kimchi and Radish

Complimentary Kimchi and Radish.

Chicken Stew with Ginseng (Samgyetang) 삼계탕 15,000 KRW (S$18.75)

This is the signature Chicken Stew with Ginseng (Samgyetang) 삼계탕 15,000 KRW (S$18.75) which majority of the people would order. This is a dish that we always order whenever we visit this restaurant in the past. For this trip, my partner ordered this. This is a must try! It was served pipping hot in a hot stone.

Chicken Stew with Ginseng (Samgyetang) 삼계탕 15,000 KRW (S$18.75)

The Chicken Stew with Ginseng consisted of a whole chicken (young free range chicken) stuffed with glutinous rice and a whole ginseng, topped with spring onions, black sesame seeds, pine nuts and sunflower seeds. The other ingredients include korea date, gingko nuts, ginseng, garlic as well as medical herbs and grains.

The white milky broth, slightly sweet with ginseng flavour was delicious. I would always finish every single bit in this bowl including drinking all the broth! (see photo at the end of the post).

Wild Ginseng Cultured Roots 6,000 KRW (S$7.50)

As I do not know when I will come back to Seoul, my curiosity resulted in me ordering the Wild Ginseng Cultured Roots 6,000 KRW (S$7.50). What a waste of money.. (at least to me)..

Black Chicken Stew with Ginseng (Ogolgye Samgyetang) 22,000 KRW (S$27.50)
with Wild Ginseng Cultured Roots 6,000 KRW (S$7.50)

I ordered the Black Chicken Stew with Ginseng (Ogolgye Samgyetang) 22,000 KRW (S$27.50). This is considered the premium version of the white chicken as it is more nutritious. In addition, it contains lots of antioxidants. This is also the reason why when you visit herbal soup stalls, nearly every stall would sell herbal black chicken soup.

Black Chicken Stew with Ginseng (Ogolgye Samgyetang) 22,000 KRW (S$27.50)
with Wild Ginseng Cultured Roots 6,000 KRW (S$7.50)

The Back Chicken skin and bone are black and its fresh is normally dark grey in colour. I added the Wild Ginseng Cultured Roots into the bowl to make it 'super premium' HAHA. The silly decisions I make  when I am overseas tsk tsk...

Black Chicken Stew with Ginseng (Ogolgye Samgyetang) 22,000 KRW (S$27.50)
with Wild Ginseng Cultured Roots 6,000 KRW (S$7.50)

The glutinous rice and a whole ginseng was stuffed into the Black Chicken. In terms of taste, you would likely not detect any difference between the black and white chicken. Personally, I find the black chicken more tender.

Interesting toilet signage.

Picture from previous stay in Korea

As mentioned earlier, I would always polish off all the whole bowl! Every drop of the soup would be drank and even the bones would be 'sparkling clean'. Yes, this is how much I love this! =D

Tosokchon Samgyetang Restaurant 토속촌土俗村 (South Korea, Seoul)

Seoul-si, Jongno-gu, Chebu-dong 85-1 대한민국 서울특별시 종로구 체부동 85-1

Tel: +82-2-737-7444

Opening Hours: Daily 10am - 10pm

Directions: From Gyeongbokgung Station (subway line 3) Exit 2, walk straight. After walking about 160 meters you will see GS (GS is a convenience store, similar to our 7-11). Take a left turn and walk in, you will see the restaurant on your left.

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